New Zealand, Vol. 4

The following day, after our visit to Seresin, I was still thinking about their biodynamic approach to farming and the church of Seresin as I called it. The barrel room at Seresin is quite a place, definitely my kind of church. Maybe biodynamics is a bit like that, more spiritual than science, which reflects a bit about how wine is in general. Along with a great site, it takes a bit of spirit to make good wine and more than a little science to keep from mucking it up.

After Seresin we made our way to Nelson and a wonderful place to stay called the Wakefield Quay House. The old house sat right on the water with beautiful views of the Tasmin bay and the snow capped mountains beyond. I can't say I am generally in love with B&B's, sometimes it feels like you are invading someone's house for the evening. But besides the location and the great room, it was Woody Moore who makes this place the perfect place to stay. She is full of life and makes you feel as though you have known her forever. She also cooks a mean breakfast. She is English which made Karen feel right at home and encouraged us to come down for a drink after we put our bags away. She greeted us with fresh, raw snapper a friend had caught, with wasabi and soy sauce. On top of that, she served it up with a bottle of Neudorf Savvy, a delicious combination and made me look forward to our planned visit to Neudorf the following day.

After a great Woody breakfast, we headed into the vineyards of Nelson and Neudorf, one of New Zealand's top producers. It is hard to describe the charm of the place without actually seeing it. The old farmhouse has been restored to house a cellar door and winery and the gardens are beautifully done. The whole place looks like a natural extension of the vineyard which lies just beyond the garden. We were greated by the owner Judi Finn, who turned us over to winemaker John  Kavanagh. I am never more amazed with the hospitality of Kiwis. John was busy, but stopped and showed us the vineyard. I could see that the farming was spot on and after John talked a bit about the sandy loam over clay and gravel, I could also see what gives the depth to the wines from this Moutere Hills site.

After a bit of time, owner Tim Finn came and joined us. Tim is a man after my own heart in that he constructed a pizza oven on site. I would have loved to stay around the area and been involved in a little pizza cooking at the site. I could imagine sitting in the garden, drinking some Neudorf wines and making pizza. I could especially imagine it after Tim sat and tasted his wines with us. These were some of my favorite wines yet and I can say the Chardonnay, is the best New Zealand Chardonnay I have tasted. The Moutere Pinot Noir went to the top of the list as well. It has great depth, with plent of black fruit, black cherry, with a slight herbal edge or forest floor aroma underneath. I wondered with a little bottle age, if that herbal edge would turn to tobaco.

After Neudorf, we set off for the Monterey house for lunch. What a fantastic spot. You just never wanted to leave. We eventually had to to make our way to Rimu Grove , a winery owned by Yanks, Patrick and Barbara Stowe. Patrick is from Napa of all places and making some very nice wine, including one of the best Pinot Gris I have had yet on the trip.

Well, more to come, including a great discovery, Daniel Schuster Wines.